This was my first trip to Italy so I arrived early with two days to spend in Rome before meeting up with the girlies on Saturday at Romes Leonardo Da Vinci-Fiumicino Airport to head off to magical Puglia. In Puglia we visited Ostuni, Cistrenino, Polynano a Mare, Bare, Lecce, Matera, Albellobello. I recommend them all! These towns were incredible. And we melted right into the vibe in every one of them. From the people we met to the food we ate, to the ancient history we soaked up like sponges. And a special shout out to the old men that seemed to wait for us to come back each day so they could guide us into our parking spot. Old Italian men in groups sitting or standing around seems to be a national pastime.
The 12 hour flight, the longest I've ever done solo, went smoothly and I arranged for the hotel to send a car to pick me up so there was a smiley Italian man waiting for me holding up a sign with my name on it. He spoke no English. I also checked my carry-on bag, which I don't usually do, so that I could use the expander. To carry on ITA Airlines they only allow 20 lbs. But if you check a bag they allow 50 lbs. so I gave up my fear of lost luggage and hid an air tag in the lining. I have to say getting on a plane with just a tote bag and a little cross body was really nice. Especially since I'm 5'2 and usually can't reach the over head. When traveling alone on a plane, make sure you have a cross body or fanny pack, something small for your valuables that you can keep on your body for when you fall asleep and when you go to the rest room.
My first impression of Italy, very handsome men! Like everywhere you look. Even the old ones. Seriously. I stayed in a small boutique hotel in Rome. I feel safer in a smaller hotel when alone in a big city. Also, I brought a small hotel door alarm. It's just a little battery operated wedge that you slip under the door and if anyone pushes the door the alarm goes off. And trust me because I tested it at home, it is so loud that if it went off Interpol might show up. The hotel was lovely and central to all the things I wanted to see like the Trevi Fountain and the Colosseum. Rome was hot. I got lost the first day. I mean really lost, 30,000 steps lost! Google maps failed me, Uber failed me, cabs were full. My daughter actually tracked me and talked me back to my hotel from her bed in LA. I know, pathetic. By the time I got back to my hotel there was a cankle situation happening. But I loved every minute of it.
Rome is vibrant! The tourists sights get crowded. I got up with the sun the next morning and walked to the Trevi Fountain. I had passed it the day before in the afternoon and couldn't even see it, there were so many people. I made sure I knew my way this time. It was early enough so I could sit at the edge! I channeled my inner Sophia Lauren and threw my three coins in the fountain. I didn't realize the ledge I was sitting on was so wet. Um, yeah it's a fountain. Nice look in my linen pants. Then I dropped my hat in a mud puddle, but aside from wet butt and dirty hat, it was spectacular.
That night I headed to Come na Vorta, a restaurant recommend by a Vlogger I follow and it did not disappoint. It was the best pasta I've ever tasted. The next day I got lost again, this time in Vatican City. But hey, if you're gonna get lost... I've come to terms with being the kind of girl that likes to meander around a new city and make multiple cafe and gelato stops, confident that I will always find my way. Eventually.
Saturday morning I arranged for another car from the hotel to take me back to the airport to meet the girls. The sun was just rising and the taxi drove right past the Colosseum. The orange glow of the rising sun poured through the ancient arches, and I was in awe. The picture doesn't do it justice but there's a Rome reel on my instagram page where you can see the sun rising right through all the arches.
I was so excited to reunite with our host, my friend Kathy, and friends from last year's trip and meet the new women joining us. There is nothing better than girlfriends at this stage of life. We took an hour flight to Puglia, picked up "Big White" (what we named the van) and headed to Ostuni! A gorgeous coastal town with white washed buildings shining in the sunlight reflecting off the Adriatic Sea. Our Air B & B was beautiful, but wasn't ready when we arrived so we found an amazing family owned restaurant near by and had a wonderful lunch. It was the perfect start. Ostuni was fantastic and had a great vibrant town that we walked to from our place surrounded by water. We did yoga in the morning on our deck overlooking the sea, toured medieval gardens, had charcuterie and wine off a wine truck, and I shopped like I owned Visa.
We headed out for a day trip to Cisternino and started out in an antique market. After a cafe stop to cool off, we headed out to meet chef Fabrizio and have lunch in his gorgeous garden at his authentic Trulli home in the countryside. His food was incredible and it just kept coming out of his little Trulli kitchen. He was a happy man, doing what he loved and you could taste the love in every bite. He told us his story about becoming a chef and fed us until we couldn't breathe. Then he sent us off with more homemade goodies for breakfast the next day. We ended the day lounging at a private beach club with the locals in Polignano a Mare.
We toured the Trulli homes of Alberobello which are gorgeous, made of limestone with domed or conical roofs dating back to the mid-14th century. And we had the opportunity to go inside some of them.
Bari was incredible, we happened upon a wedding in the square of the Basilica di San Nicola Church, a major Christian pilgrimage site built between 1807 and 1197. And legend has it that this is where the story of Santa developed. The Church is so ancient, and gorgeous inside. Our tour guide got us focaccia from the oldest bakery in Italy and we joined an old man playing street music. And I mean joined, he gave us instruments. I got the tambourin! It was hilarious. I always wanted to be Susan Day in the Partridge Family and play the tambourine. Bari is where the the Nonna's (Italian Grandmas) make the traditional orecchiette pasta in the street and sell them by the bag full.
On to Matera! The oldest town in Italy, continually inhabited for nearly 12,000 years. Standing on these ancient streets felt magical and sacred. Everything was the color of sand.
In our spectacular "palace" in Lecce we had chef Roberta teach us how to make the authentic Puglia Orecchiette pasta. We also made incredible spinach ricotta ravioli. As a kid ravioli was my favorite food but all I knew was Chef Boyardee, usually cold straight out of the can. I'm pretty proud of knowing how to make it from scratch now and I've made it again since I've been home. We all LOVED Lecce so much. Around the corner from our "palace" was the Main Street in the old town which was a combination old world Italian charm and chic hip elegance. The restaurants were great, the shopping was amazing (me still owning Visa) and life here just buzzed with excitement. Also, Kathy and I got to stay in the casita on the gorgeous roof top of the palace. What a dream, waking up to church bells across the way, there was a dipping pool, and cozy seating areas. The only challenge was to get up there. 80 steps up. 80 steps down. You know I counted. In the morning from the main level I'd go on the terrace and watch two elderly women neighbors chatting away in Italian while they swept their terraces. It was like watching an old forgien movie with no subtitles.
We went back to Polignano a Mare again and spent the day on a boat touring sea caves and we had a blast. The boat captain liked high speed and loud Italian music, and so did I, who knew! Usually I'm a bit nervous on a boat especially in the ocean. When Mike was very sick he watched a lot of Shark Week. I have seen every episode at least 100 times. After that I couldn't even put my toe in the ocean. But I got on the boat and I didn't even ask where the life vests were. Haha, me living la vida loca!
And of course the food! There's just no way to describe it and even begin to do it justice. So go watch my food reel, next best thing to eating it.
Usually I write everything down on a trip so I can share it with you and I planned to do that and make this a travel post where I recommend places and things to do but honestly I was having so much fun, that all went out the window. I even bought a little Vlogger video camera for this trip. I used it once. Documenting, which is usually my thing, gave way on this trip to being totally in the moment. And therein lies the magic.
If you want a little more Italy I have some fun reels on my instagram @lifeinthesixo. Sound up!
Ciao Bella!
